Mountain Manna at Island Lake Lodge
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Escape to a spa resort tucked amidst old-growth forest
above a mountain lake in the BC Rockies. And it’s now
an environmental award winner too. Ahhh...
Upon arrival Mama, Papa and Baby Bear greet you. The three
mountain peaks (top left), part of the Lizard Range, rise high
above the luxurious log-cabin-chic lodge that’s tucked in the
valley by Island Lake (middle).
Welcome to the Kootenay Rockies. This corner of southeast
BC is far from the daily distractions of city life, yet it’s easily
accessible from Calgary (a beautiful three-and-a-half hour drive)
and Vancouver (an easy one-hour plane ride to Cranbrook, plus
one-hour drive).
Come here to completely relax or to get the adrenaline
going. My goal: a mix of both. There’s hiking, mountain biking,
fly fishing, canoeing, even golf…take your pick. Island Lake
Lodge itself has 11 hikes that range from an easy jaunt around
the lake to an overnight trek in the alpine. I walked the Old
Growth Cedar Trail (top right) under the cover of towering 800-
year-old red cedars. Surreal. Especially after discovering centuryold
names etched in trees that have long outlived the carvers
(“Steele” could be legendary Sam Steele of the North-West Mounted Police…).
The whole region is full of history. Nearby Fernie retains its early outpost
vibe; heritage buildings date to the early 1900s. The town has survived fires,
floods, even a curse…Local legend says that when William Fernie brought coal
mining to the Elk Valley he courted an
aboriginal chief’s daughter to source
the black stones in her necklace. Once
he found the coal, Fernie abandoned
her, and a curse was placed on the
valley in revenge. The curse was
eventually lifted, but the Ghostrider
legend lives: When shadows fall across
the face of Mount Hosmer in summer,
the ghostly figures of the chief and his
daughter appear.
Back at the lodge, after hiking
and circling the pristine lake on
canoe (I glided through jumping fish
and past families of baby ducks), a
hot tub awaits. Sitting chin-deep in
soothing bubbles, I gazed up at the
bear family and watched as a bald eagle swooped and circled down to the lake…Then there’s
the spa. Divine. A full-body massage is sooooo much more satisfying after a surplus of fresh air in
spectacular surroundings. This is definitely not roughing it!
Next I sampled the fabulous food. Based on the freshest, locally sourced ingredients, it’s
gourmet fare that’ll satisfy any foodie. The dishes range from coconut-encrusted prawns to bison
(one guest said it was one of the best pieces of meat he’s ever tasted!). And then dessert…the
Pavlova (bottom left) I savoured was both light and decadent. All of it is served with the region’s
reknowned hospitality—the entire staff at Island Lake Lodge has a perpetual smile going. No
wonder…look where they work.
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